These postings are from questions sent to enquiries@mi16conversion.co.uk
FAQs - Fitting the Peugeot Mi16 Parts
FAQs - General Peugeot Mi16 Conversion Questions and Answers
FAQs - Problems

FAQs - General Questions on the Peugeot Mi16 Conversion

Q. If I get the dizzy adaptor will the 1.9 gti ecu control it OK.
A. Yes, you can use all the 1.9 8v electronics to control the 16v (with the distributor converter). The 8v ECU has a lower rev limit, you you need the delimited version to make full power.

Q. I also have twin dellorto carbs which I could fit if I got the correct manifold but how much hassle would this be and what electronics am I going to need.
A. No additional electronics, but you will need a fuel pump (such as Facet red top), fuel filter/regulator (such as Filter King) and linkage for the throttle. You need to remove the injection fuel pump and replace with a length of tube. Or, you can run with 2 injection fuel regulators and the original fuel pump. We prefer the Facet fuel pump way, but Pugspares do a kit for both methods. You can just leave the electonics to run the ignition and carbs for fuelling. You have to set the carbs up with the right jets and chokes, to get smooth running, good power and good economy.

Q. I'm going to drop the first 3 ratios from the 16 box into the 19 box, but not sure what performance I'll get by hybriding the electronics from the 1.9 to the 16v head (although I guess its essentially pretty similar)
A. Yes, it will be the same.

Q. I have been told there are several types of Mi16 engine, which one should I use?
A. There are 2 types, 1905cc (wet liners, alloy block, 160bhp) as fitted to 405 until 1992 and 1998cc (iron block, 150bhp, Catalyst) from 1992 on. 4x4 models don't run a different engine. If you are looking to use the engine in a 205, use the lighter 1905cc unit.

Q. Do you sell the fuel line which goes from the fuel filter to the fuel rail? After doing the 16v engine conversion, they are different sizes at both ends!! It is a major concern as I have had to tighten the hose down at one end! If you don't sell them, what do you do?
A. You will need to make up your own fuel line for that purpose. The easiest way is to source a new banjo union for the top of the fuel filter which s/b 8mm (I think) instead of the narrower diameter fitted as standard. We don't have any of these, but you'll likely find one at a local motor factors. I'm surprised you got a seal by just doing up the clamp tightly - be careful!

Q. Will a Mi16 cylinderhead bolt on to a standard gti engine block, and what will i have to change if it will work.
A. The mi16 head will bolt straight on to an 8v block (alloy/wet liner), but the oil and waterways do not match up. If you are building an engine this way to get around racing regs then that is fine - you can have the parts bespoke machined. However, this is not economical for a road conversion when you can simply drop in a complete mi16.

Q. Can I fit a 6 speed box from a 306 GTi6 or are there any other options for "leveling" out the torque from the MI16, when doing about 100mph its reving at nearly 5K.
A. Personally don't see a problem with this - the engine revs to 7500 so it's not under strain at 5k and the closer ratios are much better for A&B road work which is what the car is made for. Sounds like you have the 1.6 box though - you could swap to 1.9 which has longer gears. Don't forget the 6 speed isn't designed for a longer motorway gear, it just has another gear in the middle for even closer ratios!! You also need to be aware that you will lose some steering lock in the 205 as the GTi6 box has a longer final drive housing.

Q. Someone in a mag recently put a 5th gear from a deisel in to try and lower the revs at high speed, do you think this will work?
A. Yes, this is an option if you want lower revs for motorway work, but it will spoil the nice close rations.

Q. Are the ECUs for 1.9 and 2.0 mi16 the same?
A. No. To tell the difference between the ECUs, then the 2000cc ECU is in a much fatter cast alloy box. They are not interchangeable.

Q. how do you tell the difference between a 1.9 mi16 (xuj9) and a 2.0 mi16 (xuj10)?
A. 1905cc runs an alloy block with wet liners. 2000cc runs an iron block. The cylinder heads are the same, although there are some very minor casting differences but they are interchangeable. The 2000cc has an additional cover plate over the 4 direct coils, which makes the cam cover look different. The 1905cc runs a distributor cap and arm, with traditional plug leads (although the ECU controls ignition advance). The 2000cc exhaust cam runs an oil feed down the centre and out into a pump bolted to the head. You'll need to cap this with a bolt to stop it squirting oil when fitted in the 205, or swap the cam for one from the 1905cc.

Q. Wondered if you could tell me what mpg I would expect from the Mi16 engine when it's in my 205?
A. Well, this is an engine that will return 40 mpg. It was fitted in a saloon that was sold into the fleet market. However, since it produces 160 bhp, the mpg will obviously reduce when you push on. I can't imagine you will notice any reduction from your 8v though as whilst it's more powerful, it is also more efficient.

Q. How much does mpg suffer when you start modifying, (chip, cam, exhaust, polished head etc)?
A. How long is a piece of string really, it depends what you do. A mild cam and some gas flowing will not affect your fuel efficiency very much, but if you drive it harder as a result, then that will! You don't get something for nothing though: any performance mod is designed to get more combustion mixture into the engine, so that means more fuel.

Q. I have a non-GTi model. What is involved in converting this?
A. My advice is always start with the GTi (or CTi) model, even if it means selling your existing car and buying the GTi. This is becuase you have so many parts to replace or upgrade with a non-GTi model including:
1. Wiring Loom - if you don't currently have fuel injection, then you will need to completely rewire the car. Many non-GTi models don't even have a rev counter. You will need a fuel injection pump and tank. The list goes on....
2. Suspension and brakes- the GTi suspension is an entirely different design at the front and runs bigger torsion bars etc. at the back. With a non-GTi, you will need to replace the front subframe entirely, before you even get started on the suspension and brakes
3. Wheel Arches - the non-GTi arches are narrower and you will therefore be restricted on wheel/tyre size

Q. I have spent a lot of time and money on the styling of my 205 XS and want to convert this to Mi16
A. Well, this may be the exception to the rule, as you might be prepared for the extra effort if you already have a non-GTi with expensive body styling and so on. Still not recommended though.

Q. I have been given a 405 1.6GL by a relative but the engine is pretty knackered and i was thinking of putting in a Mi16 instead of its 1.6, what kind of extras would i need except from the actual Mi16 engine and what kind of difficulty level would you rate it at. ?
A. The same comments apply to the 405 as to the 205 above. However, since you can buy a 405 Mi16 it really is not worth while. You can buy the Mi16 for very good prices now and it saves you replacing just about everything under the bonnet, boot and wheel arches! If you add up the cost of the engine, wiring loom, ECU, air flow meter, other engine components, suspension, brakes, fuel tank and pump (the list goes on...) then you would struggle to do it for less than £2,000. Best advice is sell the 1.6GL and buy a 405 Mi16.

In terms of difficulty, it's about as difficult as the Mi16 conversion gets, because you have to replace just about everything. However, if you have mechanical experience it would be a reasonable project. If your experience does not extend beyond changing the oil and spark plugs, then forget it!

Q. Can i use the K&N filter off the 8v engine on the 16 valve ?? the air flow meter on the 16v has a square entry but might be removable ??
A. Yes, just swap the filter over to the 16v AFM. Swap the plastic inlet pipe if you need to (4x 10mm bolts, the K&N filter goes onto this). You might find it a tight squeeze toward the inner wing but it all fits in. If you are using the 405 Mi16 rubber induction hose, it's an easier fit. The BX 16v inlet hose is longer and your filter will be a tight fit right up in the inner wing.

FAQs - Fitting the Peugeot Mi16 Conversion Parts

Q. How do I fit the Distributor Conversion Kit?
A. The converter kit fits on the end of the inlet cam, where the standard Mi16 distributor normally sits. It comprises two parts, an alloy spacer/housing which bolts in place of the original distributor cap; and a small pegged cam converter which tightly attaches over the end of the inlet cam:
1. Firstly, remove the standard distributor cap, rotor arm, rotor drive flange and backing plate to reveal the end of the inlet camshaft. Keep the bolt from the centre of the rotor drive flange as you need this later. Make sure the end of the cam is clean and rust and dirt free.
2. Offer up the pegged cam converter to the inlet cam and carefully tap this onto the end with a hammer (preferably copper or leather headed). Make sure it stays straight and the round peg is in line with the square (yes square!) slot in the cam. When you have enough purchase for the rotor arm bolt, make sure the pegged converter is straight, and put the bolt back in and wind it in. This will pull the converter all the way home.
TIP: the pegged cam converter is a very tight fit over the end of the cam and this is deliberate, as it has to spin at high speed and in turn spin the distributor.
3. Remove the bolt again and inspect everything to ensure the converter is fully home on the end of the cam. Then apply some locking fluid to the bolt and put it back in and tighten it.
4. Bolt on the alloy spacer/housing with the supplied allen bolts.
5. You can now fit the 8 valve GTi distributor.

Q. How do I fit the Mi16 Conversion Exhaust Manifold?
A. Pugspares ship the exhaust manifold split into the 2 main sections. It's easier to bolt it on this way.
TIP: as with fitting any exhaust system, don't tighten any bolts up until you have assembled the entire manifold. Fitting is easier this way - leave them all finger tight to start with, or even looser if you find you have to move the system around a bit to joggle the parts into place.
1. Bolt the long sections to the cylinder head first, using a standard Mi16 exhaust manifold gasket. You can offer up the sections from under the car, or from the top if you haven't assembled the coolant heater matrix hoses yet and the bonnet is off.
2. Tap the Y-piece onto the main pipes (make sure the clamps are in place first)
3. Offer up your exhaust system and cut the tail pipe of the manifold to length to suit your exhaust. Depending on your system, you may need to source reducer pipes/joints or weld the exhaust to the tail of the manifold. Pugspares sell a system that bolts straight on if you have any difficulties.
4. Once you are happy with the position of the manifold, tighten all the bolts. For the manifold/head bolts, use the torque wrench setting as specified in the Haynes manual for the Mi16 engine.

FAQs - Problems

Q. The Mi16 runs, but sticks to 3000rpm, after a while the exhaust manifold begins to glow, any ideas?
A. It sounds like you have the cam timing too far advanced. Have you checked the cam timing? If you are using standard pulleys, make sure the peg holes in the pulleys line up with those in the head. If you are using verniers, you would be wise to measure the timing again to make sure it is not too far advanced.
Result. Ive got the problem sorted, the timing was out enough to burn the fuel on the way out(I think), the other problems were the coolant sensor, if this dont work, enormous amounts of fuel are injected. The other thing was possibly ( see wot you think, its only a hypothesis!), the supplementary air device of the Mi16 is of a different resistance (Ohms) 9ohms as opposed to 55ohms when the 8v device is used, if the ecu sends a controlled voltage, 9volts, through this device, then to the throttle sensor and the air flow sensor in succession, the voltage getting back to the chip will be all to cock, (the potential difference over the air device), so the ecu goes a bit mad, as it reads the voltages from the other devices to control the fuel. Maybe its a con, but I swoped the coolant sensor, supplementary air device, adjusted the timing slightly and the miserable bugger goes, not too badly either.

Q. I've put an mi16 lump in my 205, but there is a rattling at the top of the engine any ideas?
A. Noises are difficult to diagnose by email but it's likely to be:
1. noisy hydraulic lifter (eg. worn) - you need to take the cam cover off and inspect, preferably with the cams removed. If the oil is old or there is a lot of gunk in there, you may cure it by cleaning and changing the oil.
2. worn cam lobes - again, remove the cam cover and inspect
3. noisy fuel injector - not necessarily a problem until it fails completely. This will manifest itself when you open the throttle.